A Camping Guide to the Camino del Norte

We tried to camp as much as possible on the Norte to save money and avoid Alburgues. We did not enjoy the experience they provided and found it hard to sleep in them. If you are like us and prefer a tent to a crowded, noisy room, this guide is meant to offer our experience camping on the Norte and provide resources on the campsites we found, including their locations and prices. The distance listed on each marker is the distance between that marker and the previous one.

Click here for list in Google Sheets

Click here to download GPS track and waypoints (right click and save as)

Of the 29 days we walked the Camino, we stayed in 12 Alburgues in total. Of the remaining 17 days, 5 were spent in hotels. The price range was between 30-50 euros for a room. Usually Pensions are the cheapest private rooms you can get in Spain, as most have a shared bathroom. Hostals (not to be confused with hostels) are a little more expensive and contain a private bathroom. Hotels are the most expensive and are similar to what you would expect a hotel to have in the United Sates.

The remaining days we camped. 10 were at designated campgrounds, 1 was a stealth camp in the woods and 1 we payed to camp outside of an Alburgue in their garden.

I mostly relied on Google maps and offline maps by OsmAnd to find campsites. If you are not familiar with OsmAnd maps, it is an open source map set similar to google maps. It is available on both iOS and Android. You can download maps to use offline for pretty much any country you can think of. You get 7 free map downloads and then you have to pay for additional maps, but they are really cheap. You can buy all of Europe for 3 bucks. The maps are pretty good and you can search for things like campsites and grocery stores offline. You can also import GPS tracks and view them on the maps.

Campgrounds are also searchable on Google Maps, but more effort was involved to determine if it is near the Camino, and you need cellular data to use it.

A quick note on data and SIM cards. I picked up a SIM card in Barcelona at the beginning of the trip by a large carrier called Movistar. For 15 euros I received 2 gb of data (for 30 days) and a local number. I had to pay a base of 5 euros for phone calls, which were 25 cents. I really liked Movistar and would recommend them. I got 4G coverage pretty much everywhere on the Norte. Since we were in Spain longer than 30 days, I was able to add 15 euros to my account and for another 2gb for 30 days. As  long as you have money in your account it will automatically renew. Do be aware, foreign credit cards will not work to add more money on your account through the Movistar website, and you will have to find a Movistar store in town to add money. Movistar is in all major cities along the way. I added more money in Ribadeo.

Of course, you don’t need to have a cell phone and data on the Camino, but it helps. I used it primarily to search and book hotels, plane tickets and bus tickets. Free wifi is available at some Alburgues, but I am always hesitant of using credit cards on public networks. And most Alburgues didn’t have wifi or the wifi was so slow it was unusable.

GoEuro is a useful site to search for bus tickets. It is in English and you can purchase tickets also. I don’t know whether it is cheaper or not to buy them on the website or at the bus station, but regardless it is useful for looking up time schedules.

The Wise Pilgrim App (available on iOS – not sure about Android), is a good app for the Norte. They have a map built into the app, but you need a data connection to use it, which is kind of dumb. The map is okay. It lists all the locations of Alburgues which is very helpful, as the written guidebook does not include any town maps. The guidebook is called The Northern Caminos and is published by Cicero. It is the only English guide book published. It is mostly terrible, but it does have a nice mileage chart in the back for distances between cities. It is too heavy and has too much subjective junk in it. A new version is in the works so maybe that will be better. You can get away with only using the App.

Navigation is easy. The route is marked by large yellow arrows and seashells. There are some confusing parts but the map in the mobile app or the GPS tracks in OsmAnd will set you straight.

Okay, back to campsites. There are a lot of campgrounds near the Norte. The coast is a popular spot for traveling and attracts people from all over Europe. They are just like campgrounds in the US and all have showers and usually laundry. Many also have a small general store and a restaurant.

Keep in mind, not all campgrounds are open before June. There were a lot of places we could have stayed at in May if they were open. Usually the campground had a website we could check and a phone number to call to verify their hours. Some of these places did not speak any English, but Carolyn knew enough Spanish to ask if they were open and how much it would cost. Call before hand if you can to confirm they are open.

We found most of the campsites to be good. For us both, it ended up being cheaper overall than staying in Alburgues. Do note, some campgrounds will charge you a per person fee PLUS a separate fee for a tent. So it helps if you are two people sharing one tent.

Reception will usually close around 8:00 PM  at these places (even though the sun does not set until around 10:00 PM). Something to keep in mind.

The following is a list of the locations we stayed at along with the distances between them.

 

Day 1: Alburgue Santa Anna

Coordinates: 43.326, -1.919274

Distance: 16 km (9.9 miles)

Price: Donation

Opinion: Small Alburgue, rude hosts

 

Day 2: Campground

Gran Camping Zarautz

Coordinates: 43.28968, -2.146842

Distance: 28 km (17.4 miles)

Price: 5 Euros per person

Opinion: Nice lawn on a hill with great views of the ocean and Zarautz; good showers; soap in bathroom

 

Day 3: Alburgue

Alburgue de Perigrino Deba

Coordinates: 43.29363, -2.355398

Distance: 25 km (15.5 miles)

Price: 5 euros per person

Opinion: It was okay; right near the train tracks

 

Day 4: Alburgue

Ziortza Monastery

Coordinates: 43.24813, -2.562288

Distance: 31 km (19.25 miles)

Price: Donation

Opinion: Neat monestary; Dinner provided; Dirty beds; we probably could have camped there if we asked, another couple set up thier tent in the garden

 

Day 5: Camping

Alburgue Eskirika

Coordinates: 43.28872, -2.741062

Distance: 25 km (15.53 miles)

Price: 5 euros per person, plus 5 euros for a tent (this price was kind of made up on the spot, but for comparison it’s 12 euros to stay in the Alburgue)

Opinion: There is a nice secluded garden where you can set up your tent with nice grass; you can use showers and bathrooms until 10 PM when the doors lock, and they reopen at 7:00 AM

 

Day 6: Hostal

Hostal Begona, Bilboa

Coordinates: 43.26108, -2.925861

Distance: 24 km (14.90)

Price: 68 Euros

Opinion: Great little Hostal in the center of Bilboa; within 10 minute walk to the Gugganhiem museum (definately check it out); nice laundromat 8 minutes away (ask the front desk for directions)

 

Day 7: Alburgue 

Alburgue Bida Ona, Portugalete

Coordinates: 43.31877, -3.023365

Distance: 20 km (12.42 miles)

Price: 12 Euros

Opinion: Average private Alburgue; Expensive; Provided with sheets and a locker with lock; rooms were very warm; camping is hard the day out of Bilboa because you walk through an area of urban sprawl

 

Day 8: Camping 

Camping de Castro Urdiales

Coordinates: 43.38948, -3.240447

Distance: 28 km (17.39 miles)

Price: 7.50 euros per person

Opinion: Nice campsite on a hill overlooking the ocean

 

Day 9: Camping 

Alburgue de Juvenile, Sontona

Coordinates: 43.44389, -3.466069

Distance: 31 km (19.25 miles)

Price: Free

Opinion: the Alburgue de Juvenile let us camp for free outside on thier nice lawn, and also let us use the bathroom and shower at no cost. This turned out to be actually illegal and the cops showed up at the tent, knocking on it around 8:30. We explained that the worker granted us permission and they went in and talked to him. Eventually the cops let us stay for the night, but explained that the worker should not have let us camp. I suppose this makes sense, since it is a municipal alburgue and not private property. Fun times. I wouldn’t try to camp here. There is another campsite north of Sontona at 43.46278, -3.459062 (Camping Playa de Berria) but it is only open June 16- Sep 9

 

Day 10: Camping 

Camping Derbi di Loredo

Coordinates: 43.46384, -3.734321

Distance: 35 km (21.74 miles)

Price: 5 euro per person, plus 8 euro for tent

Opinion: Too expensive for camping; Cold and bad showers; unattractive lawn and campsite; there is a long walk along a cliff prior to reaching the campsite, if you have enough water it would be a good place to try and stealth camp, the last town before the cliff walk is called Galizano. There is another campsite nearby Loredo called Camping Latas (43.4546, -3.727566) but I don’t know any details about it

 

Day 11: Camping 

Camping de Santillana

Coordinates: 43.39363, -4.112692

Distance: 32 km (19.87 miles)

Price: 5 euros per person plus 5 euros for a tent

Opinion: camping area is okay, the ground is not very level- also lots of prickly weeds; Expensive; Showers were cold to Luke-warm; good washer and dryer (3 euro to wash 2 to dry). Detergent is sold in the small store for 0,50 euros; no soap in bathroom

 

Day 12: Alburgue

Alburgue de Perigrino Camilla

Coordinates: 43.38698, -4.29206

Distance: 23 km (14.28 miles)

Price: 5 euros per person

Opinion: Standard Alburgue, small, fills up fast so get there early if you want to stay there; there is a nice campground just before town called Camping Comilla (43.38781, -4.283758), but it was closed (Opens June 1st)

 

Day 13: Camping 

Camping la Paz

Coordinates: 43.39966, -4.651609

Distance: 38 km (23.6 miles)

Price: Perigrino discount  5 euro per person

Opinion: This was the most scenic campsite of the whole trip, sits high on a cliff overlooking the ocean; great spot and cheap

 

Day 14: Hotel

Don Paco Hotel, Llanes

Coordinates: 43.42145, -4.75715

Distance: 10 km (6.2 miles)

Price: 65 euros

Opinion: This hotel was originally 160 euros; not sure why it was so cheap- probably because of the low season and it being a non-weekend stay; it was really nice; epic breakfast buffet for around 8 euros per person

 

Day 15: Camping 

Camping la Sauces

Coordinates: 43.46697, -5.08874

Distance: 32 km (19.87 miles)

Price: 5 euro per person

Opinion: Nice cut lawn to sleep on under some trees; they turn the hot water on only between 8:00 AM and 1:00 PM

 

Day 16: Alburgue (Private Room)

Alburgue Congreso

Coordinates: 43.48111, -5.43265

Distance: 36 km (22.36 miles)

Price: 28 euros for private double room with bunk beds and private bathroom

Opinion: Really nice and cheap for a private double

 

Day 17: Camping 

Camping Deva

Coordinates: 43.51180, -5.59606

Distance: 23 km (14.28 miles)

Price: 6 euros per person

Opinion: Good sites with trees and nice grass; large campgrounds

 

Day 18: Hotel

Hotel Palacio Valdes

Coordinates: 43.55596, -5.920011

Distance: 32 km (19.87 miles)

Price: 45 euros

Opinion: Nice hotel option near city center; there is a rare Burger King 10 minutes walk away; there is a breakfast buffet for 8 euro but it wasn’t that good

 

Day 19: Camping 

Camping Cudillero

Coordinates: 43.55358, -6.12865

Distance: 27 km (16.77 miles)

Price: 5 euro per person plus 6 euro for tent

Opinion: This is off the Camino, north east of El Pito about 1.5 km. You can follow the Camino to El Pito and then turn right on AS-317 and follow that for a few km to the campsite. Or you can get on AS-317 in Muros de Nalon and follow it north and then west for 4 km. This is what we did and there was an awesome beach you walk past. Both routes are about the same length, but you don’t have to back track on the route we took; campsite was good, nice lawn and lots of trees; on the expensive end

 

Day 20: Camping 

Camping Regalina

Coordinates: 43.54860, -6.38377

Distance: 35 km (21.74 miles)

Price: 9 euros per person

Opinion: Very expensive; nice lawn; showers and bathrooms were on the dirty side

 

Day 21: Camping

Stealth campsite in the woods just before Penera

Coordinates: 43.54487, -6.66393

Distance: 31 km (19.25 miles)

Price: Free

Opinion: Great secluded spot in a nice pine forest; watch for poison ivy; there is a small grocery in Penera where you can purchase water for the night (1 euro per liter)

 

Day 22: Alburgue

Alburgue de Perigrino Tapia de Casariego

Coordinates: 43.56977, -6.939243

Distance: 26 km (16.15 miles)

Price: Donation

Opinion: The location of the Alburgue is really spectacular overlooking the ocean; but the place is fairly dirty and beds are filthy

At this point, the Norte splits from the Coast and heads inland. We were not able to identify any designated campgrounds that were near the route for the rest of the trip. However, there is a lot of woods, more than on most prior sections. Stealth camping is possible if you plan ahead and have water. The weather was crappy the rest of our trip so we opted to stay in Alburgues.

 

Day 23: Hostal

Hostal Linares in Ribadeo

Coordinates: 43.53611, -7.041078

Distance: 12 km (7.45 miles)

Price: 42 euro

Opinion: Really nice double rooms in the heart of the City

 

Day 24: Alburgue

Alburgue de Perigrino Mondenedo

Coordinates: 43.42788, -7.365775

Distance: 36 km (22.36 miles)

Price: 6 euros

Opinion: There are a number of potential stealth options between Lourenza and Mondonedo, as the trail follows a nature trail 8 km between the two cities. The forest here is dense but if you look hard enough I’m sure you could find someplace. It will be a dry camp- there is no flowing water nearby; weather was bad so we decided to stay at the municipal Alburgue. We did call them before arriving to ask if they allowed camping and they said they did. There is a small patch of grass on the side of the building that would work- although the location is in city

 

Day 25: Alburgue

Alburgue de Perigrino Gontan

Coordinates: 43.36781, -7.46845

Distance: 17 km (10.56 miles)

Price: 6 euros per person

Opinion: Average Alburgue

 

Day 26: Alburgue

Alburgue de Perigrino Baamonde

Coordinates: 43.17488, -7.757163

Distance: 40 km (24.84 miles)

Price: 6 euros per person

Opinion: Average Alburgue

 

Day 27: Alburgue

Alburgue de Perigrino Sabrado de Monxes

Coordinates: 43.0379, -8.023206

Distance: 40 km (24.84 miles)

Price: 6 euros per person

Opinion: Neat Alburgue in a 16th century monestary; quite dirty

During day 28 we passed into Arzua which meets up with the Frances. The Frances has 100 times more people and is absolutely crazy. Stealth camping may be possible in some pine woods between Arzua and St. Irene.

 

Day 28: Alburgue

Alburgue de Peregrino St. Irene

Coordinates: 42.91692, -8.332336

Distance: 38 km (23.60 miles)

Price: 6 euro per person

Opinion: Average Alburgue; Upon entering Santiago, I would highly urge you to book a place a few days in advance. We booked two days in advance and this was almost too late. There are tons of alburgues if you cannot find a pension or Hostal, but show up early to ensure a bed. They will fill up. In high season over 1000 pilgrims will enter Santiago on a given day.

 

Day 29: Hostal

Hostal Abrente Santiago de Compestalla

Coordinates: 42.87077, -8.546823

Distance: 23 km (14.28 miles)

Price: 38 euros

Opinion: Great cheap Hostal in Santiago; owners are very nice but do not speak any English. There are plenty of bus and train options getting out of Santiago. We had a few days and went to Salamanca which was a neat city before heading to Madrid where we caught a flight home. Porto in Portugal is another large city that is much closer than Madrid which is an option to fly home.